Old London Reinvented

In New York, if a theatre were ever to offer a performance lit only by candles, I'm pretty sure the FDNY would descend en masse and shut the thing down before the first players made it onstage. To our delight, though, that's not true in London.

We went with Klauser and Sue to Shakespeare's Globe Theatre, which was completely rebuilt using ancient materials and methods as a result of the American actor Sam Wanamaker's obsession. The New York Times explained,

"On [Wanamaker's] first visit to London in 1949, he had sought traces of the original theatre and was astonished to find only a blackened plaque on an unused brewery. He found this neglect inexplicable, and in 1970 launched the Shakespeare Globe Trust, later obtaining the building site and necessary permissions despite a hostile local council. He siphoned his earnings as actor and director into the project, undismayed by the scepticism of his British colleagues."

The Globe itself is open to the elements, but next door the Sam Wanamaker Playhouse, also a Renaissance replica, is enclosed and puts on plays year-round, so we saw Measure for Measure there. The stage was nearly bare, lighted by candelabras, and the performance was bawdily and brilliantly realized. (The downside was that the seating too was authentic; our backsides are all still in recovery.)

We continued our candlelit odyssey with a visit to the Dennis Severs house. Again joined by Sue and Klauser, with David also in tow, we booked a "silent

candlelight" tour. Severs was an artist who bought an 18th century house in central London and then fitted out various rooms to represent the way a silk weaver's family might have lived at different times in history. The only sounds were piped in noises of the century each room represents; the only light was candlelight. Each room was set up to look as if the family had just stepped out; one room even had a cat curled up on a bed. Sue, who is a museum curator, noted that as an art installation it was a remarkable feat. As history...well, in candlelight it was difficult to tell. Again, though, it was clear that this wouldn't be permitted in New York; visitors nearly caught their heads on fire from the hanging candelabras, and the rooms were as chock full of flammable objects as they could possibly be. It was both dangerous and fascinating.

To complete our experience of Old London, we hosted a tea for thirteen of Phil's students. I made two kinds of scones and four kinds of finger sandwiches, and Klauser came to demonstrate the art of making tea ("Warm the pot! Let the leaves breathe!"). The students were charming and appreciative -- only crumbs were left -- and Klauser's Victorian garb managed to help us forget the modern conveniences of electric kettle and (thank god) dishwasher.

Stretching the concept of Old/Candelit London a bit, we also indulged in a candlelight anniversary dinner at a marvelous French bistro in our neighborhood. And we took a lovely walk in  Kensington Gardens, described in the Other Blog, that culminated in my purchase of a cape for the cold weather. It manages to make me look almost exactly like Sherlock Holmes, lacking only the deerstalker and pipe, so I think it fits right in with the theme.

Our pubs for the week:

 

These two are across the street from each other.
Both have signs on the door:
"No overalls or work boots permitted!"
So we left our overalls at home.